Halifax & the surrounding coastal region
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Halifax’s regional surroundings are full of coves that make up small towns like Glen Margaret’s Cove where our campsite is located. The weather is strange here, like England or Scotland, with fog very often between rainy days and occasional summer sunshine thrown in that makes this area very picturesque.
This weather pattern, the green grass and the white granite rock formations bordering the sea are not much different from the pictures of Scotland we see in travel magazines. Maybe now we can better understand the Acadians who call this beautiful part of the world “Nouvelle Ecosse” (New Scotland =Nova Scotia). And to make it more authentic, the Scottish population is well represented here. We get a kick out of men in kilts.
Halifax’s Saturday morning Farmers’ Market is something to see, even if you’re not planning to shop. Quality fruit, vegetables, meat, bread and pastries, crepes and waffles made fresh to order – all sold by people who know their products and enjoy talking about them with the customers. There’s wine for tasting and for sale, as well as the only single malt scotch made in Canada. There are also crafts, such as knits, jewelry and paintings to name a few.
Everything is attractively displayed in the labyrinthine basement and open areas of the 1890 Alexander Keith brewery and it’s all accompanied by beautiful live music wafting throughout the market. There are lots of people but everyone is civilized.
Fisherman’s Cove on the “Eastern Passage” is an authentic 200 year old fishing village still in operation. You can buy lobster and other fish at a good market price or browse around in the colorful cute little wood cabins that sell souvenirs, gifts, snacks and other items.
On the road, we came upon the Cole Harbor salt marsh park, where you can bike or walk. There were so many different species of shore birds and even bald eagles that we had a hard time leaving the park.
Our leg muscles were hurting the next day, but the wonderful memories of our bird sightings were well worth it. We enjoyed a restful day while savoring one of Chef Patrick’s dishes derived from the classic Central American ceviche. The Chef’s special recipe consisted of lobster ceviche with garlic, lime and cilantro prepared his way!
The magnificent Peggy’s Cove is a place of rugged beauty, formed by the force of nature. Known for its famous lighthouse, this tiny fishing community clings to land’s edge, its massive granite boulders warn smooth by the crashing waves. This natural beauty has made Peggy’s Cove one of the top photographed destinations in Canada.
Minutes before arriving at Peggy’s Cove we had to stop and pay respect to those who perished in the 1998 Swissair flight 111 crash. The monument is only a few miles from where the crash occurred and is very tastefully set among the rocks and bushes overlooking the sea. Not far away, there is a discreet memorial at the actual burial ground in Bayswater that bears the engraved names of all those lost at sea. This was particularly touching because it could well be us reposing here. We have taken this very same flight with the same airline for more than 20 years and still take it when we go back to France every year, although now it’s with Swiss Airline which replaced Swissair.
If we had to choose the one most scenic drive we took so far, it would be from Margaret’s Cove to Mahone Bay and Lunenburg. The number 3 winding road that passes cove after cove, each one more beautiful and picturesque than the other, leads to the colorful and elegant Victorian homes and arty stores that make Mahone Bay so charming.
Lunenburg is a pretty little town with no shortage of restaurants. It also has some incredibly steep streets leading to the harbor. Walking downhill was hard enough without tumbling, but after lunch on a restaurant terrace admiring the four-mast schooners, we were faced with walking UP that hill. It was a killer! One can only hope the locals have some good alternatives.
On the drive back, we passed a few sand/rock beaches with picnic tables in little parks and put them on our mental list to go back for a beach day – weather permitting, of course.
We really enjoy the friendliness of people here. It’s not unusual to start a conversation with someone by asking directions or a suggestion for a good place to eat. They will become your tour guide for at least 15 minutes or sometimes get into a conversation for more than 30 minutes. One time we were photographing the sunset from the road at Peggy’s Cove when a homeowner came out and invited us to his porch to get a better view. We love nature and travel, and the human contact is a big part of our enjoyment.
The famous BLT was very enjoyable (hold the mayo!), but NO we didn’t have it on a sandwich we biked on it! The BLT bike trail is named for the villages of Beechville, Lakeside and Timberlea through which the trail passes. Like many other bike paths we’ve found, this one also uses long abandoned train routes that make for a nice smooth ride.
Now it’s time to visit historic Louisbourg while cooking our way across North America, but this is another story folks!!!
