I had the good fortune to spend a recent weekend in the charming town of Tartu, Estonia. I had the even better fortune of 25C warmth in mid-June! Only a 2 hr drive from the coastal city of Tallinn, Tartu is located in the southeastern part of Estonia. The drive was beautiful...the countryside is green and farmers can be seen toiling in the fields. The view alternates from dense pine and birch forests to flat farmland. Storks nest atop telephone poles and moose crossing signs appear when approaching a forest, though I did not catch sight of any antlers. The only unnerving part of this journey was the erratic drivers on the two-lane highway. I would definitely recommend taking a bus (versus renting a car) to any visitors hoping to take a side trip from Tallinn. The tickets are less than $10 USD and buses leave every 15 minutes.


About Tartu

Tartu, with a population of about 100,000, is much smaller than Tallinn, but still the second largest city in Estonia. There is a huge personality difference between the cities, however. The people of Tartu, in general, are much more laid back. You can expect strangers to engage in friendly conversation and waitresses to smile and joke with you...behavior not commonly seen in Tallinn. This openness is most likely due to the significant student population (a good number being foreigners) attending Estonia's largest university located in Old Town.


Things to Do


Walking Tour

One of Tartu's perks is that it's very centralized. Within a few miles of Old Town lies the bus and railway stations, shopping mall, and most of the city's main attractions and eateries. I would recommend picking up a map at the tourist information office located in Raekoja Plats (or the Town Hall Square). This will map out all the churches, statues and other important buildings plus give some history on their importance. You can do the walking tour suggested on the map in about 2 hours.


Hear the Bells

No stay in Tartu is complete without hearing the bells of the Tartu Town Hall play at noon, 6pm and 9pm each day. An enjoyable way to do this is by simultaneously grabbing a meal at one of the fine restaurants located in Raekoja Plats. My friends and I had a late, outdoor breakfast at Kuum Tass which, though it only serves breakfast until 11am, has excellent omelets available all day! With perfect timing, the bells started playing right as we finished up our eggs. Please note that a little patience is necessary...the bells start playing a few minutes after the designated time.


The Kissing Statue

The Kissing Statue is probably the most recognized symbol of Tartu. It captures the happy moment when two young lovers meet mid-run in a warm embrace. According to friends, on your first visit to the statue, you must reenact the scene for the camera with a friend or special someone. If you are lucky, you may see the fountain filled with bubbles or possibly even students wading late night in their skivvies!


Wilde Irish Pub http://www.wilde.ee/

A fictional meeting between Oscar Wilde and Estonian author, Eduard Wilde is memorialized with a statue outside this famous pub in Tartu. Inside, find a menu that includes a wide variety of pub fare including the best nachos in town as well as a hamburger that's large enough to serve 4 people! A great place for a Guinness or just to grab a liter of your favorite beer and catch a football (soccer) game.


The Botanical Gardens

For those that visit Tartu one of the 9 months out of the year when most plant life cannot survive in the harsh Estonian climate, the large greenhouse of the Botanical Gardens is sure to be a heavenly sight! However, since I visited during the summer months, I was able to enjoy the outdoor gardens...which are free to visitors! There are plenty of benches to sit and enjoy the sound of chirping birds, the fragrant lilacs (which flourish in early June), the terraced garden, and the pond surrounded by flowers native to the region.


The Ruins of the Cathedral

History buffs are sure to enjoy the small museum located within the 800-year-old cathedral. Everyone else will enjoy the view from the highest point in the city. Be cautioned, there is a bit of stair climbing involved! Most of what you see from the observation deck is green. An abundance of trees obscures the view of Old Town, but for less than $2 USD, the experience is worth it.


Club Illusion

Originally an old movie theater, Club Illusion is the one of the largest night clubs in Tartu. The entry fee is usually around $10USD and the drinks are not typical Estonian cheap, but the antique decor, fire places and chandeliers provide an unique atmosphere.



Zavood http://www.zavood.ee/english/

Described by a student as the "soul of Tartu", this small, Soviet-style pub is where the young crowd gathers in the wee morning hours. It is tiny and sure to be packed around 2 am, but people still find room to dance to a wide variety of music...everything from Salsa, to 90's American rock, to Russian drinking songs.